CASTLES GALORE
Latvia has dozens of castles, palaces and manor houses deserving of a visit, and even an overnight stay.
For a country with no royalty, Latvia has a surprising amount of castles that come in a wide variety of shapes, styles and sizes. From the primitive wooden 12th century lakecastle Ezerpils to the lavish Rastrelli creation of Rundale Palace, there’s something for everyone, no matter what your taste.
Turaida and Cesis Castles Perhaps the most easily accessible castles outside of Riga are about 100-150 km. north of the city. Your first stop will be just past Sigulda, at the Turaida Castle and grounds. The brick edifice dates back to 1214, although it was badly damaged in the 18th century and only recently restored in the 1970s. In addition to the castle museum and tower, which offers an unforgettable view of the Gauja River and the hills and valleys that have been dubbed the "Switzerland" of Latvia, there is also a sculpture park and the oldest wooden church in Vidzeme. Just outside the church is the grave of Turaida’s Rose, an orphan child named Maija Roze. A legend grew surrounding the woman when she was murdered after refusing the advances of a suitor because she did not want to betray her true love. One can even visit the ancient caves where Maija and her love would meet, just below the castle.
Directions: Take the A2 toward Sigulda and turn left when you reach the town, following the signs to the Turaida Castle grounds. Open daily 10:00-17:00
A few kilometres away is Cesis Castle, which also dates to the early 13th century. This impressive stone building has not been restored to the extent that Turaida has, and this offers an opportunity for more adventurous roaming through the winding and narrow corridors of the ruin with a candlelit lantern and hardhat provided for you! After your tour of the castle you can descend into the dungeon, where prisoners were kept, and also visit the metal smiths’ workshop, and learn about the significance of the ornaments that adorned the dress of citizens in the Middle Ages.
Directions: Continue on the A2 past Sigulda and the turn off onto the P20 toward Cesis. Open Tues.-Sun. 10-17, closed Mon.
Araisu Ezerpils As you make your way from Turaida to Cesis, an absolute must is a stop at the Araisu Lake Castle, a complete reconstruction of an unusual wooden structure built over, as the name would imply, the Araisu Lake. It was only discovered that such a structure had existed in the 1960s and 70s, at which point a reconstruction was undertaken. This simple and sparse "castle" stands in stark contrast to the imposing structures of the others on this list, but its inimitability will make it an unforgettable stop on your castle tour of Latvia.
Directions: Take the A2 toward Cesis and look for the signs to Ariasi. Although the museum is only open to patrons from May to December, you can still view most of this unusual structure from a distance, with the same effect, all year round.
Rundale Palace Largely destroyed in World War I and left to be used as a grain warehouse, school and meeting place after the Second World War, Rundale Palace has just recently been restored to its 18th century Rastrelli resplendence. Although renovations are still underway, a visit to this residence, just an hour’s drive south of Riga, won’t disappoint those with the most lavish of tastes, seeking gold leaf, silk upholstery, and crystal chandeliers. In the warmer months, the sumptuous surrounding gardens provide plenty of Kodak moments, and an abundance of eateries in the grounds of the palace, ranging from budget to fivestar, make this the perfect allday outing.
The French Connection – Jelgava Palace Probably only the most serious castle chaser will venture out to Jelgava to see the building that once housed the then soontobe King of France, Louis XVIII, when he lived here in exile waiting out the pandemonium that followed the execution of Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette. Today, the building houses the Latvian University of Agriculture, and although there are no tours of the building, it can be hired out for conferences and events. Still, the striking spectacle of the pink and white palace from across the river is sure to make the drive out there worth it.
King and Queen for a Day (or a Weekend!) Jaunpils Castle When you come to visit the museum of this castle in the Tukums region, you may just decide to stay for the night. Jaunpils Castle is one of a number of castles in Latvia that also offers visitors that chance to stay on its premises. This castle also features special events such as Medieval Feasts and Carnivals.
Directions: Take the A9 toward Saldus and turn right onto the P104 toward Jaunpils
Tel. Excursions: (+371) 6310 7082, Hotel: (+371) 2944 2539; info@jaunpilspils.lv
Museum open daily 10:00-18:00
Mezotnes Pils Following your tour of Rundale Palace, you may be feeling sufficiently ‘royal’ to require a night’s stay in a similarly palatial setting. Luckily, Mezotne Castle is not far down the road, offering a variety of differentlythemed rooms to suit your mood of the day. Choose from Sleeping Beauty, The Fox Hunt room, Springtime, or stay in Sweet Memories and make some sweet memories of your own. The family apartments have themes as diverse as Safari, Art Nouveau and Virgins, and we’ll leave it to you to find out what that last choice entails! The prices are comparable to what you would pay for a room in a Riga hotel, and also include a visit to the castle and breakfast.
Directions: Take the A7 to Bauska and once you reach the city follow the signs to "Mezotnes Pils" Tel. (+371) 396 0711. mezotnpils@apollo.lv
Riga Castle It should not be forgotten that Riga has a castle of its own, dating back to 1330. Nowadays, if you time it right, it could happen that your stay in Latvia coincides with the President’s residency there. Although one can’t visit the castle as a tourist object per se, the building does house the National History Museum and the Foreign Art Museum.
Museum of Foreign Art
History Museum of Latvia 3 Pils Laukums. Open Tues.-Sun. 11:00-17:00; Closed Mon.
Text: Amy Bryzgel
